No matter where you have it, Korean soft-tofu soup is the cold-weather meal to beat all cold-weather meals. The hot rice, the kalbi beef short ribs, the fried fish, the vegetable side dishes and the soup are like the A-Team: Each individual component has its quirky strengths, contributing its own talents to the mission objective. As played out as the yin-yang analogy may be, everything balances out something else. A bite of something crunchy can be followed by something soft. A slurp of something scalding is countered by something briskly chilled. The chew of meat is answered by tofu or veg. Spicy meets sweet; the sweet is then cleansed by tart. Always, the tofu soup hits the spot, and the spicy pork blazes a red pepper-fueled trail down your gullet. Kaju always has a handful of people waiting at its doors to get in. That it is one of Irvine's most consistently managed, consistently good soondubu joints is saying something, especially in a town with no shortage of soondubu joints.