Joe Schmoe’s is a hot dog stand in Cypress. The tiny place is the latest example of our hot-dog renaissance, an epoch that finds a wiener covered in relish, mustard and ketchup no longer good enough, that has inspired middle-aged men and women to hearken to the franks of their youthful travels and offer them to a new generation. So it’s not good enough to have a bacon-wrapped hot dog here; you’ll also find a Chicago dog, a Ripper Dog from New Jersey, and dogs from Dixie bathed in creamy coleslaw. Those regional specialties are fine, but better are Joe’s creations: a chili verde dog that seems beamed from1960s San Bernardino, so Cal-Mex it is; another one filled with pastrami and a prickly Russian dressing; and a monster called a Spicy Redneck Dog that takes a bacon-wrapped hot dog and buries it under chili, coleslaw and fried jalapeños—it’s as filling as it sounds.
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