Huntington Ramen is a Japanese restaurant in Huntington Beach. Despite the generic name and unimpressive strip mall exterior, Huntington Ramen turned out to be a truly special place. Servers wear traditional Japanese hakamas and the tables are partitioned into private booths while plucky shamisen music permeated the air. This is a restaurant that catered to everyone with a menu that will appear, at first, to be very basic. The laminated sheet—which is the size of a placemat—has pictures for nearly everything. There are seven kinds of ramen, 19 different rolls, and a roster of small plates and appetizers. But its simplicity belies food that’s made with meticulous care. The tonkotsu features crinkly al dente noodles that are a pleasure to chew and a thick long-simmered pork broth that tastes like the concentrate of a thousand hogs.
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Thursday, September 21, 2017 at 7:25 a.m. by Edwin Goei
This story begins not at Huntington Ramen, but at a new restaurant I was originally planning to review for this issue. It looked promising at first: The place had a catchy name, well-curated social-media accounts, an eclectic menu a...