Healthy Junk’s best dish is its kale chips. Baking the frilly leaves with olive oil and salt not only renders the usually punishing-to-chew vegetable edible, but turns it into something as crave-worthy as Lay’s. What was once thick and leathery is now feather-light and wispy. Pick one up and it rustles and disintegrates between your fingers like burnt parchment paper. There is no need for fries if you order one of their burgers—those kale chips do very well as a French fry substitute, and most likely healthier too, provided you don’t dip them in the ranch sauce they give you. You want minimal distraction biting into the Anaheim Chile Burger anyway, one of the best meals Healthy Junk makes. It utilizes a whole breaded and decadently fried slice of the chile as a better burger add-on than anything Carl’s Jr. might peddle with curvy supermodels. But most of all, the same DNA that makes an In-N-Out burger so satisfying to chomp is at play here: the buttery toasted bun, the crisp vegetables, and the mingling sauces tell your mouth that what you’re eating is something hot and juicy, not something vegetarian.
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If you're eating dinner at Healthy Junk, you aren't there by accident. You didn't happen to just stroll by and thought you'd try it on a whim. Past a certain time, after the time-clockers go home, there are no accidental drop-ins in...