Greek Islands tried to expand once, but it didn't take. What it does now it does just as it always did before it thought it could do it better somewhere else. This is Greek food carefully cooked and mindfully prepared. It's too bad that it's in a food court, because it really does deserve to be located in nothing less than Mt. Olympus. If it takes longer than the average food court vendor to prepare the dishes it's because these are plates as elaborate as those offered by restaurants that might charge twice the price. The keftedes are flipped ever so gently to carefully roast over a fire-licked griddle and the taboule is refreshing and verdant. The family that owns the stall also operates it with the pride of people who know they're doing everything well. Grandpapa chars the lamb chops into softness while mom ladles out the earthy moussaka. It's like your visiting the Greek aunt and uncle's house if their home were a regrettably forgettable office-park food court.
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This terrible economy is unsurprisingly wreaking havoc on our restaurant scene, claiming victims almost weekly. One of its lucky survivors is Greek Islands Cuisine, a 16-year-old Irvine business that recently had to shutter a locati...