Grandma's is the county's place to worship the gnarled splendor of broasted chicken, the criminally under-appreciated cooking style that dominates the Red States and is better than any other fried meal you'll ever taste. Grandma's prepares its birds just like they do it in Iowa, by patting down wings, breasts, thighs-even gizzards-with piquant seasonings and batter, then tossing the pieces into one of many steel pressure cookers. A volley of pops heard around the tiny dining area announces their rising temperature. It sounds like some of Santa Ana's rougher neighborhoods come nightfall.
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