A fondaabuelito with too many gift-giving grandchildren. The meals are similarly homey, chilango at their core; you won't find some of the entrées here anywhere else in la naranja. Take the enchiladas toluqueñas, a trio of rolled corn tortillas with the only cheese present appearing as sprinkled cotija on top, along with a drizzle of crema fresca. Inside them sit a mush of potato and chorizo, a fine substance to soak up the spicy red salsa slathered across the enchiladas.
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You know a Mexican restaurant is ballsy when it blasts Javier Solís. The legendary ranchera crooner nowadays is only heard in households, his melancholy singing too somber for the restaurant jukebox’s usual emphasis on ...