Ennar is an izakaya in banh mi territory. During Happy Hour, Ennar’s smoke-kissed meat sticks that might go for twice the price elsewhere average about a dollar each here. It proves that good things happen when Japanese food, arguably the most expensive of all Asian cuisines, enters the realm of Little Saigon, home to one of the cheapest. The microeconomic effects of Bolsa Street are nothing if not a price equalizer. You should, of course, start with the yakitori. Begin by ordering the thigh meat—everyone’s de facto entry level skewer. Each morsel, cut surgically into uniformly shaped nubs, are speared in between alternating fingers of scorched scallion.
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Ennar Calasian Grill has gigantic-yet-dainty shoes to fill—Haley Nguyen's, to be exact. Xanh Bistro, Nguyen's Vietnamese eatery, has been gone for a few months now, and Ennar has moved in, taking over the space with the same r...