Don Pollo's chicken meat is juicy, easily sliding off the bone-it's so tender you might be tempted to stick a straw in it to try to slurp it up. And then there's the skin, shiny with the grease that seeped up from the fat lurking just beneath it, taut over drumstick, wing or breast. You can hear a snap upon biting into it, feel shards sprinkle across your mouth. The best parts of the bird are the drumsticks and wings, where the tips of each nub transform into obsidian veins on the bone; you'll find yourself sucking on them long after the last of the flesh is digested.
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I must be honest: As a Mexican, I think we do chicken best al carbón—slathered in citrus juices and patted down with spices, then left to the mercies of ceaseless flames on an open grill, the way they do it at the Surfi...