The back-and-forth between French and Vietnamese décor at this vegetarian restaurant gets dizzying, even a bit annoying. But bickering soon dissipates under the brotherhood of great food, hybrids that you can imagine indulging in along the banks of the Seine or Mekong. And as Edith Piaf begins to sing "La Vie en Rose"-for some serendipitous reason, the CD player always features her torch song around dessert time-and you sip on a second order of coma-eradicating coffee, you can feel the world revert to a pre-Dien Bien Phu era, where French elegance and Vietnamese refinement waltzed tenuously.
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Highlight steak, the vegetarians start bitching about animal cruelty. Highlight tofu palaces, the carnivores want to kill you for succumbing to P.C. interests. In the interest of pleasing and infuriating both, then, here's a list of...