A couple of county loncheras hawk tortas ahogadas, and the local Taquerias Guadalajara chain sells them as well. But neither of them prepares the dish the way Chago Ahogada does. The cooks start with a bolillo-not your usual fluffy French roll, but a smaller, thinner version called a birote. They toast the birote, slice it in half, stuff it with a smear of pinto beans and fleshy carnitas, then place the torta in a bowl and slather it in a salsa. You can ask for a mild version, but the waiter will smile if you request they serve it bien ahogada-really drowned, which makes it bloody hot.
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Is this column prophetic? Just a couple of weeks ago, in a dispatch praising a Mexico City-style restaurant, I closed the review with a swipe at people from Guadalajara, also known as Tapatíos. Now, a Santa Ana outpost of a f...