At Centrál Coastal Peruvian, about the only thing you don’t use the ají on is the ceviche, here made with flawless streaks of sea bass acid-cooked in a frothy, lip-puckering liquid made from lime juice, onion and chile -- a concoction Peruvians lovingly call “leche de tigre.” Just as legitimate is the chaufa, Centrál’s take on Peruvian fried rice, even if it doesn’t have a grain of rice in it. Instead the kitchen uses quinoa -- a staple in the Peruvian diet before American hipsters claimed it -- and wok-tosses the tiny starch bubbles in a soy-sauce-based stir-fry topped with slices of lotus root and fried quail eggs.
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