Foodies aching for the bulky, gently spiced pleasures of the central Mexican state of Puebla are limited to but one local outlet: Cemitas Poblanas, a rickety lunch truck that shudders to a halt every morning outside a recently opened Northgate Supermarket in Santa Ana. Although tacos, tortas, and burritos are sold here, concentrate on the cemitas (epic sandwiches with multiple layers of everything from avocado to chipotle peppers) and tacos AA!rabes (a mestizo pita sandwich), two foodstuffs so fanciful and wondrous their origins seem better explained by the Chariots of the Gods than a Diana Kennedy cookbook.
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