To come to Baja Fish Tacos at noon is to see a line out the door and no places to sit. The restaurant is the undisputed lunch spot for cube drones who descend from the offices of nearby towers while their execs go to Mastro's. The service is fast and efficient; and the food is good. The most coveted condiment at their free salsa bar is the house pico de gallo, which is so popular a fresh batch is brought out at what seems five minute intervals. It's the near perfect complement to everything, but especially the hot chips. The fish in the tacos are fine, but the the rice and beans aren't just mere supporting players. The beans are so blubbery they're almost soup and congeal at the cooling touch of your metal fork, thus revealing their richness. Then there's the rice--fluffy as cotton, almost as flavorful as Malaysian Hainan chicken rice and Peruvian arroz.
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We've made a list of great sandwiches, even devoted an entire issue of our dead tree edition to notable noodle dishes, but what about rice? We often take it for granted because, well, because it's rice. But rice is essential, rice i...