Atun is a sushi restaurant in Long Beach that resembles a woodcarving masterpiece. The walls are made out of recycled German pine stacked unevenly as though it were an unfinished game of Jenga. Yes, it's a trendy space--as all post-Nobu sushi bars that would serve martinis and bowls of edamame have to be--but unlike a lot of those, it feels warm and accessible. It’s the kind of place in which you can imagine yourself slurping a comforting bowl of hot udon soup on a cold night, except it's not served here. Atun dabbles mostly in yakitori, sushi and tempura. There’s teriyaki, but it constitutes two lonely dishes of beef and chicken no one actually orders. The point here is to graze the small plates menu, take in a few rolls, then wash down the sticks of yakitori with a soju-based cocktail, marveling at the artistry Atun takes in everything it does.