We named Ohshima the Best Japanese Restaurant back in 2010, and it's still a great place to feast on noodles, rice and other dishes from the Land of the Rising Elders. But its true speciality is sushi, for which chef Shige—who kind of resembles Ray Romano—holds court with rarities (barracuda sashimi) and puts personal spins on the standbys (using a blowtorch on the black cod so that it caramelizes to an onion-like wisp). And for an omakase that starts at $25 for eight pieces, each one better than 75 percent of the sushi in this land, Ohshima is not just great eating; it's as mandatory a requirement for an Orange County resident as railing against Orange County Register readers.