You again! Read our blurb on Best Fish and Chips, then enjoy dozens of the sustainably produced Carlsbad oysters without feeling unjustifiably uneasy. They're diminutive things with a quivering, shimmering meat not bigger than a throat lozenge, cupped in a deeply welled ivory shell that's its own nature-formed spoon. Jethro Naude and Andrew Gruel still do the cooking, and most everything they serve, even the oysters, are dropped into paper baskets. That Gruel was the manager at the Aquarium of the Pacific's sustainable-seafood initiative is a better condiment to his cuisine than tartar sauce.