Amid the Lebanese bakeries, hookah lounges and Middle Eastern grocery markets of Anaheim's Little Arabia stands Olive Tree, hailed across Southern California as the best Middle Eastern restaurant of them all. The moderate prices do no injustice to the hefty portions: lamb shanks so tender they don't slide right off the bone so much as vanish; chicken shawerma charred to perfection over a bed of basmati rice; or a tureen of creamy labne, a thick yogurt typically eaten with pita bread drizzled in olive oil. Best of all, however, are the regional dishes, which are overlooked at many Arabic restaurants, such as the Palestinian musakhan (roasted chicken baked with onions, sumac and saffron, then topped with pine nuts) or the Jordanian mansaf (seasoned lamb cooked in a yogurt-based broth and served over rice).