Yes, Alebrije's Grill is technically a lonchera, and we have a separate category for those. But fuck segregation: No Mexican chef does more satisfying food than Albert Hernández, who makes the best Mexico City-style food in the county—a thousand manifestations of masa, ranging from gargantuan mulitas to chilango-style quesadillas filled with mushrooms, grilled pineapple slices, ham and creamy quesillo. But Hernández is also not bound by regional limits, embracing other regional specialties, most famously in his taco acorazado, which finds a handmade tortilla covered with a bed of rice, then milanesa, then cheese, cactus, jalapeños, queso cotija and more cheese. Sure, there's no alcohol, and the only seats are worn milk crates bent from fat men sitting on them for hours on end, but how can you argue against this?