There is a wall of tequilas in the newer, more bar-like area of Costa Mesa's venerable El Matador. More than 170 brands and varieties are represented, and your goal should be to try each one . . . well, maybe only the really good ones. Start with what the man behind the bar most weekdays calls "the best margarita ever": Maestro Dobel combined with agave and freshly squeezed lime juices. It's so tartly refreshing you'll crave another. And with so many tequilas to sample, your day can resemble a Choose Your Own Adventure book, only with booze and the requisite fresh chips and salsa.