Jamillah Ma is one of those rarities: a pioneer in her field who stays relevant years after entering the scene. She took Orange County by storm in the 1990s with Jamillah Garden, a since-shuttered restaurant that was the first in the county to serve Islamic Chinese cuisine, a tradition that's not only halal, but also home to fantastic lamb hot pots, hand-stretched noodles, and a sesame-seed-studded scallion bread as thick as a deep-dish pizza and as flaky as a croissant. But a couple of years back, Ma opened Mas' Chinese Islamic, in a stretch of Anaheim everyone thinks is Fullerton and is literally on the wrong side of the tracks. Doesn't matter: Mas' has been slammed since opening day with Chinese, Muslims, Arabs and plain ol' Americans alike, feasting in a banquet-like main room until their stomachs look like beach balls. Ma and her daughter are thinking of expanding, but this is the gem that'll continue to shine.