A&J is like a pair of old sneakers. There are newer, shinier ones out there, but something keeps drawing us back to what we know and love. In the case of this tiny, always-busy, cash-only Irvine deli, it's the broad yet solid roster of traditional Taiwanese dishes at fast-food prices: juicy, pan-fried beef buns, scallion pancakes, crispy pork chops, pungent porridge, wontons drowning in red chili oil. The apex of comfort food is the hearty niu ro mien (beef noodle soup), pho's rebellious cousin. The dark, shimmery brew bobs with slightly chewy homemade egg noodles; chunks of soft, flavorful beef; and a hearty serving of greens. The best part? Here, you can noisily slurp away without judgment. $