Last year, we named the Alebrije's truck's taco acorazado the best dish in Orange County, and it could top Best Of lists for decades to come, not just because of its story—a regional speciality of Cuernavaca, whose residents have a stranglehold on Orange County's lonchera industry, but concocted here by Albert Hernandez, a native of Guanajuato who helped fight for taco-truck rights years ago—but because of its architectural splendor. Behold, a handmade corn tortilla as long and wide as a brick; covered in a bed of rice, grilled cactus, caramelized onions, pickled jalapeños; and crowned by a crunchy, glistening mass of beef milanesa. You don't eat this taco so much as deconstruct it, until you can finally fold the tortilla in half—and then, the full pleasures of this rarest, finest of Mexican antojitos in Orange County begin. $