You've had saltado before, but did you know it's not even an indigenous Peruvian dish? A bicultural offspring of Andean ingredients married with Chinese stir-fry technique, saltado is just one of many dishes of comida chifa, the kind of culinary melding that always occurs when the Chinese diaspora moves in. But until Aji Limon debuted, no OC Peruvian restaurant had embraced the entire repertoire of Sino-Andean dishes in such a way. A furious whoosh of flames fuels woks in a see-through kitchen that produces plates of fried rice called chaufa, the chow mein cousin tallarin tay pa especial, and a sweet-and-sour-like pollo ti pa kai that gives Panda Express' orange chicken a run for its money. $$