Anaheim's as-yet-undesignated Little Arabia community centers on Olive Tree, owned by Abu Ahmad, with head chef Um Alaa cooking an astounding list of uncommon Jordanian, Palestinian and Egyptian specialities. While the standard fare of meze and kebabs are available, the thing to do is ask what's in the hotel pans behind the counter. Each day, there are one or two specials, from maglooba (lamb marinated in keshek, a sour dairy product) to saya deia (marinated, grilled whole fish), from rice with 17 spices and shredded lamb to chicken stewed with onions. Everything is made from scratch, and just about everything is eye-openingly tasty. During Ramadan, the restaurant is closed during the day, but it opens at sunset with a huge buffet for iftar, the fast-breaking meal. $$