There are Mexican restaurants, and then there's this standard, almost a template for all that is right about Mexican cuisine in the U.S.: grimy floors; televisions tuned to some soccer match—any soccer match—somewhere in the world; jukebox blasting regional music when there aren't tejana-wearing men going from table to table, ready to trill and strum accordions and guitars for requests; and the daily ritual of men selling DVDs and CDs. The platters speak the culinary lingua franca of Mexicans in el norte—tacos, enchiladas, birria, menudo and chilaquiles on a plate as large as an oil pan. Make like everyone else and enjoy the complimentary side of refried beans topped with salty cotija cheese. And make sure to take some panocha on the way out—don't snicker, they're delectable gorditas made with brown sugar. $