The best Indian restaurant in Orange County isn't even a restaurant; it's a grocery store with a vegetarian steam table in the back. The table, which might give anyone pause, is an array of the known (saag paneer, chana masala) and the unknown (bitter melon, curried jackfruit, soy "fish" curry). Those who can't bring themselves to order from trays should try the made-to-order snacks called chaat, assorted crunchy crackers made of chickpea flour and topped with everything from insanely spicy sauces with vegetables to cool yogurt spiked with mint. Nearly everything costs $5 or less; even the combo is $6. $