Bear with us: Natural Tonic Center is the official name of the health-food store near the post office on Warner Avenue in Huntington Beach—but on the marquee for the shop is the ever-cryptic "Health Food." But what draws in the crowds isn't so much the multitude of dietary supplements, manuals on good living and medicine ranging from homeopathic to olfactory—although people come in at all hours to fill up on such things—but rather Esther's Place, an unadvertised lunch counter smack-dab in the center of the store run by the always-dressed-to-the-nines Esther Kim, who offers filling meals ranging from chicken sandwiches to artfully crafted tomato bisques that seem out of place at such a hippie-dippy place. Confused yet? Don't be. Just visit the address we list and be prepared to love your health.