You can get a rotisserie chicken just about anywhere these days: Costco, the local supermarket. The basic idea is as universal as chicken itself: Spear the whole hen on a rotating spike, then leave it to roast near a radiating heat source so the subcutaneous fat self-bastes the meat to a juicy sort of succulence. But the Peruvians at Inka Grill Rotisserie Chicken up the ante. To cook the pollo à la brasa, the chefs eschew electricity for a smoldering wood fire. And where there's fire, there's smoke. And where there's smoke, there's flavor. This outlet of the local Incan chain is the only one that filed the proper paperwork to do it this way. The open-ended oven infuses the sweet smell of burnt carbon into the hens as it cooks them. It will penetrate the meat and invade your follicles and clothes. But once you've had this rotisserie, you'll insist on no other way. Ron Popeil would never have imagined one like this.