Ah, Paris. It's expensive. Pascal Olhats knows this, which is why the French-food impresario has created what is arguably the most Gallic of all his French restaurants as an affordable alternative to a plane ticket. The space, inherited from the failed French 75, evokes the City of Lights, but the food is mostly Provençal-inspired. The ratatouille comes fuming-hot in its cooking vessel, every bit tasting as you imagine a certain Pixar rat would've prepared it. Olhats' roasted beef-marrow bones are served with a tiny spoon to spread the fatty bone butter on toasted bread. Feed it to your partner, and then daydream together of the day you two can finally see the Eiffel Tower.