If you have enough to worry about these days besides taking out a second mortgage just to impress your date, take her to Lua Bistrot. Though it's in decidedly unglamorous Little Saigon, this overachieving restaurant looks like something out of trendy midtown New York. The all-black leather seats are square-ish, the floor is shinier than a just-polished loafer, and the music is groovy. Just don't let your date see the bargain pricing on the menu. Order for her the steak-and-eggs dinner, which also includes cooked-to-order thick-cut fries tossed in pungently fresh bits of garlic, a tartly dressed side salad and, for the time being, a free crème brûlée dessert. More important, that $9 steak is done au poivre (that's French for pepper sauce), as big as your fist and as tender as your flabby midsection. Why is she going out with you again?