Foodies are finally discovering the pleasures of Mexican helados—ice cream formed with native fruits such as tuna (the fruit of the prickly-pear cactus) and mamey, paletas (iced fruit bars) concocted from agues frescas, or flavored creams such as nuez (walnuts) or horchata. And while Santa Ana has the largest collection of neverías, the top choice is in Stanton, where the Garcia family, from dad to daughter, concocts creations daily using fresh fruits bought that morning. All wonderful choices, and when your palate tires of brain freezes, soothe it with some of the largest cocteles (fruit salads) this side of the Dole plantation.