An arm is about the only part you'll see of the man responsible for the masterpiece of the deep-fried arts that is England Fish and Chips' cod. You'll see his arm sticking out of a tiny service window, depositing orders. And since each piece of fish retails for less than most value menu items, there are a lot of orders to fill. These billy-club-long sticks of fish are delicate inside, raucously crunchy outside, and surrounded by a perfectly formed golden cocoon. Fry-oil alchemy magically transforms such things as pineapple and mushrooms into deep-fried creatures they were never meant to be—but that you enjoy anyway. Disregard the dinginess of the surroundings. Ignore the rough-around-the-edges neighborhood it's in. You are in the midst of genius.