Say what you want about Donald Bren's Irvine Co., but it sure knows how to train its employees. The service at Andrea in the Pelican Hill Resort borders on obsessive. The minute you step out of your vehicle and hand your keys to the valet, you're treated like you are Bren himself. The valet will retrieve your coat from the back seat, dust it off and put it on you. Doors will be opened by two bowing men stationed beside them. No fewer than three staff members dote on you when you're seated. Some have accents that are vaguely European, which we suspect is a prerequisite for the job. All utensils will be cycled out between courses, even if you didn't so much as look at them. Donald Bren, your people know how to get their fawn on.