There has to be a secret to the tastiest of koobideh kebabs. The plump, handmade Persian morsels are a mixture of minced meat (chicken, beef or lamb), onions, parsley and spices, which doesn't seem so complicated. But it must be, especially if the succulent bobbing little bits of meat that emerge from the fire are anything like the smattering of nuanced and deeply satisfying flavors of the kebabs at the Orchid Restaurant. The presentation is simple: a lean stick skewering a strip of meat that has been shaped into small hills over a bed of rice, with a lemon wedge and a roasted tomato on the side. But a forkful of this handful of elements reveals flavors that are nothing short of startling: a mix of deep reds, spice, tang and faraway oceans. Forget the barbecue kebab and step behind the curtains at Orchid for the real thing.