Tequila has left its Mexican roots and become something of a gourmand obsession these past couple of years, with multinationals boasting añejo this, reposado that and a bunch of pinche Patron. There to guide you through the good, the bad and the rotgut is Adriana Leon, a Santa Ana gal who has the proper genealogical credentials (from Arandas, Jalisco, home to the ambrosiacal Cazadores brand) to go with a knack for uncovering little-known vintages and cornering the import market on them. She's a great drinking pal, but it's better to hire her for a tequila tasting, at which the mujer chingona explains each sip with the care of a teacher, the knowledge of a nerd and the joy only a Mexican from Jalisco can impart. La Tequilera, as Leon's legion of fans call her, also operates from the distinct disadvantage of operating in a muy macho world, but nevertheless leaves her male competitors in the polvo.