It may not have taken off like frozen yogurt, and it's got a hell of a lot more calories, but we love Beard Papa's cream puffs for all their bulbous, craggy, pock-marked crustiness, with a vanilla custard cream that's pumped in only after you order. Once you pay your two bucks, consume it immediately. If you dilly-dally, it degrades into just another run-of-the-mill piece of pastry. But during its first few minutes of birth, no cream puff is its equal. It takes practice to eat one without dribbling out its filling and making a blubbery mess. The best technique is to simultaneously inhale while biting—a maneuver we call the "suck and bite." So while the proprietors of OC's only two Beard Papa's locations are lucky if they see more than two customers in line, that's just fine with us. The fewer witnesses there are to our oral fixation, the better.