If you think the name's a mouthful, wait until you see what they serve: meats of every kind heaped onto plates of broken rice. The choices are limitless—grilled pork chops marinated with lemon grass, snappy-skinned Chinese sausages as shiny as mirrors. All are the best versions of themselves here, where most combos won't cost more than $10. But the crowning achievement is their tau hu ky—blocks of shrimp mousse lighter than helium, surrounded by a crispy, crumbly shell of tofu skin—which trumps any rendition made anywhere else. Douse it and everything else on your plate with fish sauce and say it again, this time with feeling: Com Tam Tran Quy Cap!