With a menu spanning more than 150 dishes, cheap prices and specials on every page, Formosa is a foodie's dimly lit, claustrophobic dream. But the real fun lies in the motel restaurant's two hidden menus—the one written in Chinese characters on a whiteboard, and the one known only to the ornery owner, who's nevertheless helpful in your quest for the county's best Middle Kingdom grub. Stay away from the stuff you've had before—orange chicken, curry beef, fried anything—and instead ask for the translations. Out come sausage bits with raw garlic and whole fish drizzled with any number of sweet-or-sour-or-spicy-or-pungent sauces. Stick to the Taiwanese specialties (after asking what they are), and whatever you order, accompany it with a flaky, succulent, green-scallion pancake.