You're in a room that looks as though it could be hosed down at the end of the night. From the back, you hear the clang of woks in an unseen kitchen, the clamor of steel-on-steel, the sizzle of saltado stir-fries being seared. Yes, you want some of it, if only because the now-classic fusion dish of Chinese-Andean roots is what everyone orders the first time around. Second-timers to La Pollada Peruvian Grill move on to the tallarines, linguine stir-fried with the same saltado ingredients to make a chow mein no Cantonese chef had ever imagined. When you turn pro, you take on the chupe de camarones, a thick, orange-hued shrimp soup enriched with milk and cheese that also has rice, large chewy kernels of choclo, about 20 shrimp and a whole egg cracked into it.