Should you come with a non-meat-eater, you can send them to the venerable Sushi Wasabi, which is within steps of Hebaragi’s door. You can meet up at the shared parking lot afterward—they having spent a small fortune on raw fish and you reeking of rendered pork jowl.
Hebaragi Korean BBQ, 14430 Newport Ave., Tustin, (714) 734-5922. Meats, $8.50-$12.50. Two-order minimum. Beer, soju and bokbunja. Call for hours.
This review appeared in print as "Barbecue With Cheek: From pig jowls to beef stomach to plain old steak, pretty much any animal part tastes amazing after a few minutes on the blazing-hot griddles at Hebaragi."