Remembrance of Things Pasta

Basilicos is unforgettable

We'll be coming back to Basilico's because there's so much left to try on that menu, particularly the Italian wedding soup, which is apparently a traditional favorite on the east coast. It's a chicken broth filled with pastina (very small pasta), tiny meatballs and escrole greens. Escrole? I had to ask, too. Turns out it is a salad plant with wide, dark green leaves—sometimes called Batavian endive . . . where, come to think of it, I think I once vacationed, back before the Serbo-Croatian conflict.

BASILICO'S PASTA E VINO, 19171 MAGNOLIA AVE., HUNTINGTON BEACH, (714) 963-7980. OPEN SUN.-THURS., 4 P.M.-9 P.M.; FRI.-SAT., 4 P.M.-10 P.M. DINNER FOR TWO, $30-$40, EXCLUDING DRINKS. BEER, WINE.

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