Grub Guide
Tasty morsels from the county's best damn dining guide
NOODLE AVENUE
Noodles. Lots of 'em. Thin. Thick. Stir-fried. In soup. Yellow. White. Thai. Vietnamese. Japanese. All heaps of long, luscious strands. 13816 Red Hill Ave., Tustin, (714) 505-9070; www.noodleavenue.com. $$
VILLA PARK
ROCKWELL'S CAFE AND BAKERY
This neighborhood café and bakery is an ode to Norman with Rockwellian gilt-edged plates and prints covering the bathroom walls. Besides the interior-design salute, Rockwell's serves seven great versions of eggs Benedict, all with hollandaise sauce made from scratch. 17853 Santiago Blvd., Villa Park, (714) 921-0622; www.rockwellsbakery.com. $
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Dee Dee
311 S. Brookhurst
Anaheim, CA 92801
Category: Restaurant >
Region: Out of Town
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Catalina Fish Kitchen
670 W. 17th St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Costa Mesa
Anh Hong Restaurant
10195 Westminster Ave.
Garden Grove, CA 92843
Category: Restaurant > Barbecue
Region: Garden Grove
Brees' Quality Meats
11877 Valley View St.
Garden Grove, CA 92845
Category: Restaurant > Grocery
Region: Garden Grove
Seoul Oak Korean BBQ
8295 Garden Grove Blvd.
Garden Grove, CA 92844
Category: Restaurant > Barbecue
Region: Garden Grove
Aliso Beach Snack Bar
31131 S. Pacific Coast Highway
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Laguna Beach
Solomon's Bakery
23020 Lake Forest Drive
Mission Viejo, CA 92653
Category: Restaurant > Bakery
Region: Laguna Hills
Volcano Burgers
3652 Cerritos Ave.
Rossmoor, CA 90720
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Los Alamitos
Charlie's Chili
102 McFadden Place
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Newport Beach
Kitayama Restaurant
101 Bayview Place
Newport Beach, CA 92660
Category: Restaurant > Japanese
Region: Newport Beach
Pescadou Bistro
3325 Newport Blvd.
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Category: Restaurant > Bistro
Region: Newport Beach
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CHEZ ROSE
The back-and-forth between French and Vietnamese décor at this vegetarian restaurant gets dizzying, even a bit annoying. But bickering soon dissipates under the brotherhood of great food, hybrids that you can imagine indulging in along the banks of the Seine or the Mekong. And as Edith Piaf begins to sing "La Vie en Rose"""for some serendipitous reason, the CD player always plays her torch song around dessert time""and you sip on a second order of coma-eradicating coffee, you can feel the world revert to a pre-Dien Bien Phu era, where French elegance and Vietnamese refinement waltzed tenuously. 7360 Westminster Blvd., Westminster, (714) 890-9711. $
DUONG SON BBQ
Chicken, duck and pork""these are the sole listings on the Vietnamese/Chinese/English menu at Duong Son BBQ, a smokehouse between a jewelry store and a skin-care center in Little Saigon's anarchic Cultural Court district. The pork features a ruddy, crisp skin; is nearly fat-free; and is roasted until it's as soft as a marshmallow. Duong Son's pork is a meat for eternity, one of the best arguments yet against PETA. 9211 Bolsa Ave., Ste. 115, Westminster, (714) 897-2288. $
Kim SU
A funky little place to eat lunch""traditional Chinese, great dim sum, but we usually go for lunch specials like sweet and sour pork, broccoli beef, and kung pao chicken. Weeklings like this place because you can mix and share food so easily, and because we're cheap bastards. 10526 Bolsa Ave., Westminster, (714) 554-6261. $
PAGOLAC
Pagolac will show you another side of beef""seven, to be exact. "Bo 7 Mon," the restaurant sign's subtitle, is Vietnamese for seven courses of beef, the restaurant's specialty. Ungodly slabs of sirloin are transformed into wisps of flavor-packed beef. 14580 Brookhurst St., Westminster, (714) 531-4740. $$
SEAFOOD WORLD
Seafood World lives up to its name by wheeling out goodies like fried scallop rolls (large scallops in a flaky pastry served with mayo and a maraschino cherry!), crab and shrimp balls with peas (wrapped in rice paper), and very large, juicy and spicy deep-fried shrimp. 15351 Brookhurst St., Westminster, (714) 775-8828.$$
La Bettola
Delicious focaccia and a ramekin of butter-soft roasted garlic cloves glistening in olive oil arrive at your table when you sit down. Next, try the classic caesar salad (a better courtship tool than a dozen roses). 18504 Yorba Linda Blvd., Yorba Linda, (714) 695-0470. $$
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
HATAM
If you have a hankering for Persian food, try the lamb shank, a huge leg of lamb complete with bone marrow and fat. It's served as a stew, and the meat rivals Jell-O for tenderness. Kebabs are good too! 1112 N. Brookhurst St., Anaheim, (714) 991-6060; also at 24000 Alicia Pkwy., Ste. 28, Mission Viejo, (949) 768-0122; www.hatamrestaurant.com. $$
JERRY'S WOOD-FIRED HOT DOGS
Not since Boogie Nights has a wiener garnered so much deserved buzz as the yearlong love-in for those steamed at Jerry's Wood-Fired Hot Dogs. Owner and Cleveland native Jerry O'Connell comes from the land where sausage-making is gospel, and his dogs show it: all-beef franks bursting from taut casings; X-rated kielbasas with a vicious, Warsaw Pact bite; and a jalapeño hot link that is proudly inauthentic, but nobody gives a damn as his whining-hole is deep-throating the eight inches. 2276 E. 17th St., Santa Ana, (714) 245-0200; also at 1360 S. Beach Blvd. Ste. C, La Habra, (562) 697-4644; www.jerrysdogs.com. $
JOHNNY REBS' SOUTHERN ROADHOUSE
With plastic flamingos and a stuffed catfish wall trophy the size of a walrus, the South lives on here. Delight in the Yankee cheese grits and fried green tomatoes, but don't forget to try the catfish. 4663 Long Beach Blvd., Long Beach, (562) 423-7327; also at 2940 E. Chapman, Orange, (714) 633-3369; www.johnnyrebs.com. $
LILY'S BAKERY
Lily's primarily concerns itself with wedding cakes and pastries à la the original locale, but it also slaps out a fine bánh mì, layering meats and vegetables into an eye-pleasing sandwich. The best choice is the bánh mì jambon, thick slices of boneless pork leg cured with black peppercorns and a mild vinegar tang. The pork fat gels during curing, adding a curious, slightly rubbery textural contrast to the rich ham and sharp black peppercorns. 10161 Bolsa Ave., Ste. 109B, Westminster, (714) 839-1099; www.lilysbakery.com. ¢
MOTHER'S MARKET
This organic mini-chain is an Orange County institution: a place that, along with the Gypsy Den, hipped up vegetarian eating in Orange County years ago. They offer an extensive breakfast-through-dinner menu, but constant is their remarkable soyrizo""chopped up with onions, tomatoes and a bit of salsa instead of prepared in greasy, crispy cylinders hours after being removed from a pig""but this soyrizo is lean, hearty and even a bit spicy, and all-vegan. 2963 Michelson Dr., Irvine, (949) 752-6667; also at 225 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 631-4741; 19770 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach, (714) 963-6667; and 24165 Paseo de Valencia, Laguna Woods, (949) 768-6667; www.mothersmarket.com. $
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