Grub Guide

HATAM
If you have a hankering for Persian food, try the lamb shank, a huge leg of lamb complete with bone marrow and fat. It's served as a stew, and the meat rivals Jell-O for tenderness. Kabobs are good, too! 1112 N. Brookhurst St., Anaheim, (714) 991-6060; 24000 Alicia Pkwy., Ste. 28, Mission Viejo, (949) 768-0122. $$

OPAH
The menu is a blend of nouveau-seafood with democratic flair. Fish fanatics must get the Pacific Northwest cioppino, which bursts with chunks of salmon, halibut and ahi. 26851 Aliso Creek Rd., (949) 360-8822; 22332 El Paseo, Rancho Santa Margarita, (949) 766-9988; 13122 Jamboree Rd., Irvine, (714) 508-8055; www.opahrestaurant.com. $$

TAQUERÍAS GUADALAJARA
This place is open 24 hours! Try their corn tortillas filled with chicken; marinated asada; or smoky, chile-tinged rotisserie pork doused with chopped cilantro. The tacos al pastor are worth waiting for if you're there after midnight. 520 N. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim, (714) 758-1370; 305 E. Fourth St., Santa Ana, (714) 953-1191; 1904 W. First St., Santa Ana, (714) 547-7515. ¢

TITO'S LA ESPECIAL
Tito's La Especial is the master of the tacos al vapor format, the gloriously fatty style that steams tortillas and shredded beef together until it's almost like an ice cream sandwich. Ignore the drunks outside the nearby bar in the Harbor location, and they'll ignore you back. 503 W. 17th, Santa Ana, (714) 543-2900; 701 N. Harbor Blvd., Ste. D, Santa Ana, (714) 554-9871.