This Week in Cephalopods

Irvinites all agree on one thing and one thing only: the No. 10 combo, a tender, chewy, delectable calamari steak with teriyaki sauce and sashimi. Taiko's calamari is a delicate homage to the squid, one that I have many times failed to re-create. 14775JeffreyRd.,Ste.K,Irvine,(949)559-7190.$$

When friends come to town, the first thing we do is take them here. King crab legs, calamari and steaks are specialties of the house, served in generous portions at reasonable prices. It always tastes great in an ambiance of SoCal beach hedonism. 34699GoldenLantern,DanaPoint,(949)496-6500.$$$

In his 1992 thriller Hideaway, Dean Koonz's main characters dine at Zov's on calamari and black-bean soup that was "such a perfect sensual experience that the monochromatic bistro seemed ablaze with color." 17440E.17thSt.,Tustin,(714)838-8855.$$

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