This Week In Choo-Choo Chow

TLAQUEPAQUE

A place where Mexican Mexican food is served with items not found at Taco Bell. Try the mole with the texture of ketchup, made up from the sweetest ingredients on earth or spices harvested from Satan's flower garden. 111 W. Santa Fe, Placentia, (714) 528-8515. $$

TAQUERÍADEANDA

Taquería de Anda makes fine tacos, but its real specialty is its burritos. Especially alluring is Anda's beef-tongue version, which the always-working cooks prepare so exquisitely you'll want to confess to your priest that you thought for a fleeting moment you were Frenching a cow and liking it. 300 W. Valencia Dr., Fullerton, (714) 871-4211; 1029 E. Fourth St., Santa Ana, (714) 835-7010; www.taqueriadeanda.com. ¢

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