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This week in the letter T

Gustavo Arellano

Published on January 20, 2005

No, this isn't becoming Sesame Street, but gobbling through tacos and Thai over the weekend reminded me most taco and Thai joints name their restaurants starting with those words. Which got me thinking about other fab eateries that start with the letter T—quite a few (and no—a restaurant starting with "The" doesn't count). Here's a couple where you can stuff your food hole soon.

DINNER FOR TWO:

¢…….………………..…..Less than $10!

$……………….…….…………..$10-$20

$$…………….……….…………$20-$40

$$$………………………¡Eres muy rico!

TABLE TEN CALIFORNIA GRILL

Table Ten is a place where you can eat tacos filled with glossy, maple-tinged corned beef in a sleek, strip-mall boite. The delectable caesar salad features hand-torn greens jacketed with a caesar vinaigrette. 124 W. Commonwealth, Fullerton, (714) 526-3210. $

TACOS ARANDAS

One thing that distinguishes Arandas' tacos from other taquerías' is its selection of rare-for-taco meats such as buche (pig stomach) and tripas (cow intestines). Regardless of meat choice, the restaurant uses down-soft tortillas as a base, cramming them with huge chunks of savory onions and cilantro and topping them with a tangy salsa to make their humble specialty a gourmet meal. 305 N. Brookhurst, Anaheim, (714) 520-7935. ¢

TACOS NEZA

Al pastor (spiced pork spun on a spit) is the name of the juego at Tacos Neza, a particularly divey taquería down the street from The Orange County Register's offices. Marinated in the manner of Texcoco—ain't diversity great? Now we have Mexican restaurants that specialize in the food of Mexican city neighborhoods—it's orange with pork grease, spicy with salsa and saliva-inducing. 1320 N. Grand Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 834-1292. ¢

TAIKO

Irvinites all agree on one thing and one thing only: the No. 10 combo, a tender, chewy, delectable calamari steak with teriyaki sauce and sashimi. Taiko's calamari is a delicate homage to the squid, one that I have many times failed to re-create. 14775 Jeffrey Rd., Ste. K, Irvine, (949) 559-7190. $$

TANGATA

You want to feel pampered and catered-to like a well-tended divorcee? Then you must dine where the socialites and divorcees dine: at your neighborhood museum. Tangata is the Bowers Museum of Cultural Art's restaurant, and it is exquisite and perfect in every way. Everything goes better with the citrus-based ponzu (that's the stuff they put on your salmon and halibut in the better sushi joints). 2002 N. Main St., Santa Ana, (714) 550-0906. $$$

TAQUERÍA Y TORTILLERÍA

For $10, you can eat like a king. Goat burritos, tongue burritos, brain burritos, it doesn't matter—you'll eat like a king. 31921 Camino Capistrano, Ste. 15, San Juan Capistrano, (949) 240-3141. ¢

TAQUERÍAS GUADALAJARA

This place is open 24 hours! Try their corn tortillas filled with chicken; marinated asada; or smoky, chile-tinged rotisserie pork doused with chopped cilantro. The tacos al pastor are worth waiting for if you're there after midnight. 520 N. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim, (714) 758-1370; 1904 W. First St., Santa Ana, (714) 547-7515; 305 E. Fourth St., Santa Ana, (714) 953-1191. ¢

TEN TEN

This restaurant specializes in seafood, so skip such less-exciting dishes as the tangerine chicken. If it's your first time, order the honey-walnut shrimp, which comes with a large portion of above-average fried rice. Delicious! 669 N. Euclid St., Anaheim, (714) 991-9272. $

THACH CHÈ HIÊN KHÁNH

It's Industrial Revolution-hectic at Thach Chè Hiên Khánh, partly because of the space's prime nook just beyond the imperial gates of Westminster's T&K Food Market, but primarily because of its reputation within the Vietnamese diaspora for its homeland's desserts, furtively sweet confections virtually unknown to the western palate. Specifically, Thach Chè Hiên Khánh specializes in the alchemy of xôi (steamed sticky rice) and chè (sugary porridge). Combine the super-Slurpee chè ba màu with any chè or xôi, and you'll never need Snickers again. 9639 Bolsa Ave., Ste. A, Westminster, (714) 839-8143. ¢

THAI BROS.

Nestled in a small building next to the library, the "bros" are open till 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Their tom kha soup has a rich broth exploding with lemongrass and coconut milk. It's warm, medicinal and just the way Mother would have made it if she had belonged to some kind of weird midnight fraternity from Siam. 238 Laguna Ave., Laguna Beach, (949) 376-9979. $

THAI NAKORN

Virtually only Thai people frequent this dive, so you know it's got to be good. Spicy food dominates the menu, delights such as hot-and-sour soup, vegetables, tofu and curry, or the pan-fried whole fish. 8674 Stanton Ave., Buena Park, (714) 952-4954. $

THANH'S

It's as if you're in the other Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City), sans the oppressive humidity. The menu—108 items ranging from bò nuong (barbecue beef) to hu tieu (noodle soup) to com (rice)—is a gastronomic delight. 9872 Bolsa Ave., Westminster, (714) 531-3888. $

TLAQUEPAQUE

A place where Mexican Mexican food is served with items not found at Taco Bell. Try the mole with a salsa that has the texture of ketchup, made up from the sweetest ingredients on earth or spices harvested from Satan's flower garden. 111 W. Santa Fe, Placentia, (714) 528-8515. $$

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