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This week in intoxicating Indian eats

RASTHAL VEGETARIAN CUISINE

The South Indian food served here ain't your Green Party fund-raiser spread of bland samosas and lukewarm lentil broth. Rasthal is the type of dive where kaju karela—a peppered, unctuous mush combining cashews with coconut oil and bitter gourds—is among the more conservative dishes, where a chile-laced farina called upma is celebrated with the reverence with which a Punjabi restaurant serves up tandoori chicken. 2751-2755 W. Lincoln Ave., Anaheim, (714) 527-3800. $

ROYAL KHYBER

Location Info

Map

Hollywood Bollywood

1840 N. Tustin Ave., Ste. C
Orange, CA 92868

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Orange

India Sweets & Spices

14441 Newport Ave.
Tustin, CA 92780

Category: Restaurant > Grocery

Region: Tustin

Islamic Society of Orange County

1 Al-Rahman Plaza
Garden Grove, CA 92844

Category: Restaurant > Middle Eastern

Region: Garden Grove

Laxmi Sweets & Spices

638 El Camino Real
Tustin, CA 92780

Category: Restaurant > Grocery

Region: Tustin

Punjab Cuisine of India

18687 Brookhurst St.
Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Fountain Valley

Rasthal Vegetarian Cuisine

2751-2755 W. Lincoln Ave.
Anaheim, CA 92801

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Anaheim

Royal Khyber Fine Indian

1621 Sunflower Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626-1512

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Costa Mesa

Shehnai Cuisine of India

705 E. Birch St., Ste. B
Brea, CA 92821

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Brea

The self-proclaimed "restaurant of the year" unabashedly serves upscale Indian cuisine in a setting more suited for coats and ties than T-shirts and jeans. The spicy chicken Madras features big chicken chunks and sliced tomatoes buried in a potent curry highlighted by freshly ground black pepper. It torches. 1621 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 436-1010; www.royalkhyber.com. $$

SHEHNAI

Brea's best Indian restaurant—okay, Brea's only Indian restaurant—decked out in fancy linen tablecloths and Ganesh water fountains, serves hot plates of tandoori, vindaloo, curry and kebabs at unfancy prices. 705 E. Birch St., Brea, (714) 990-8989. $$

More dining fun is available at www.ocweekly.com/food.

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