This Hole-in-the-Wall County

72 Hungary's only gift to world culture besides the Rubik's cube and the expression "honky"—what African-American steelworkers called their Hungarian counterparts in the early 20th Century—is kolbász, a spicy sausage the Teglas clan stuffs by the hundreds of pounds at International Meats and Deli. Cured and seasoned with imported Hungarian spices, then smoked until the fire inspector gets antsy, kolbász comes mild or spicy but should always go down as it does in Budapest: spread out on a table with bread, cheese, beer and another pyramid of kolbász links. 10382 Stanford Ave., Garden Grove, (714) 539-6334.

73 The 32-year-old Larry's Pizza and Sports Parlor is a North County icon, a place where kiddie athletes celebrate after a victory—or, conversely, drown their losses in pitchers of pink lemonade—while their coaches knock back beers with parents and watch the big leaguers duke it out on television. Larry's pizza is utilitarian: slices thick as pocket Bibles, prepared with fragrant mozzarella and provolone cheese, toppings sprinkled over the pie rather than baked in so that picky kids won't goo up their fingers trying to discard unwanted salami. 926 W. Orangethorpe Ave., Fullerton, (714) 871-3484; www.larryspizza.net.

74 Beba'sis Bolivia without the (Klaus) Barbie: shrill flute-intense Bolivian music on the radio, a television that's always screening dancers in indigenous dress and a menu little changed from Incan times. Partake of puffy salteñas (a sweet empanada housing ground beef, olives and raisins) and potato platters with as many different types of tubers as there are jokes about Lake Titicaca. 630 Grand Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 973-4928.