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Just Choose Something

You cant go wrong at Roys

My own prix fixe is every bit as good. The appetizer sampler gave me just the right variety of tastes—a fiery little rib, a firm shrimp, a plump pot sticker. Where the salmon is like an act of creative genius that declares itself in your mouth, the gentle almond-crusted mahi mahi requires real lingual attention to detail. But the payoff on the prix fixe—the exclamation point, the winning SuperLotto number—is the chocolate soufflé, the bakery treat with the hot, dark chocolate surprise inside. And when Mrs. Mathews was done with about a third of her giant god-sent salmon, she wondered, tasting my soufflé, if maybe she had ordered wrong. "It's not too late to change your mind," I said.

Roy's Restaurant, 453 Newport Center Dr. (behind Hard Rock Café), Newport Beach, (949) 640-7697. Open Sun.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m. Full bar. About $80 for two, including a Cosmo and tip for very fine service. All major credit cards accepted.

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